The darkest and richest of this run: dried black cherry, autumn spice and sage, carried by steely minerality. Falstaff gave this vintage 91 points, Vinous 90. Drinking well through 2029.
Glossy dark ruby with a soft garnet rim. The nose is strikingly concentrated: dried black cherry and blueberry, violets, and behind them sage and autumnal spice, with a hint of roasted coffee. On the palate it enters soft and supple, almost fruit-sweet, until the tannin takes hold and draws the wine tight. A steely minerality marks the finish, which runs long and gently bittersweet towards blackberry. A generous Sangiovese that asks for food: grilled red meat, mushroom risotto, roast duck or a matured cheese. Superiore.de puts the drinking window at 2029 and beyond, which reads as cautious rather than optimistic. Serve around 17 degrees, and open half an hour ahead.
In Montalcino, grandparents call their granddaughters potazzine, after the small, brightly coloured birds of the Tuscan countryside. That is what their grandmother called Viola and Sofia, the daughters of owner Gigliola Giannetti — and the estate grew in step with them: Viola was born in 1993, the founding year, and when Sofia arrived in 1996 two more hectares took the total to five.
From its first harvest the estate has worked with wild yeasts alone. Not folklore but a risk: such a fermentation can stall before it has finished. Oenologist Roberta Tiberi keeps it on course — everything here is women's work — and those yeasts give the wines their extra dimension.
Without oak, this Sangiovese is the most honest measure of the estate. There is no barrel to soften a warm year or dress up a lean one: you taste the harvest as it was.
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