The Vinous 93-pointer, but in one and a half litres. A magnum matures more slowly and more evenly, and with a vintage of this stamina that pays off.
Ruby red with the first garnet glow. The nose is lively and precise: vivid raspberry and cherry, then mint and clove, with a savoury undertone of dried flowers. Silken in texture on the palate, with juicy red fruit carried by autumnal spice; the tannins are grippy enough to promise development. From magnum the wine shows younger and more closed than from bottle, with distinctly more held back on the finish — decant an hour ahead, or cellar it until after 2028. Vinous counts to 2033 for this vintage; in this format you may add to that. Around 17 degrees, with bistecca, roast lamb or a robust pasta sauce.
In Montalcino, grandparents call their granddaughters potazzine, after the small, brightly coloured birds of the Tuscan countryside. That is what their grandmother called Viola and Sofia, the daughters of owner Gigliola Giannetti — and the estate grew in step with them: Viola was born in 1993, the founding year, and when Sofia arrived in 1996 two more hectares took the total to five.
The Rosso here is no by-product. Almost half the Brunello production is declassified into Rosso: the same vineyards, the same wild yeasts, the same forty-day fermentation — only twelve months in the large Slavonian casks instead of nearly four years. Unfiltered, like everything here.
Large formats are made in small numbers here, and not every year. Of this vintage we have six.