Three litres of the highest-rated recent vintage: Vinous 98 points. Four bottles under a single cork, keeping this Brunello young well past 2045. A bottle for the next generation rather than the next dinner.
Deep ruby with a purple sheen. Swirling brings dried violets and roses, black cherry and blackcurrant, cedar dust, sage and a smoky undertone. Full and concentrated on the palate, with a velvet texture, wild strawberry and a citrus lift raising the ripeness; the tannins are taut and still very much developing. From three litres the wine is unmistakably in its infancy: the nose holds back, the structure leads, and the fruit only arrives after hours. This is a bottle to lay down, not to open. From 2032, and then for decades. Serve around 18 degrees, with a roast that can stand up to it.
In Montalcino, grandparents call their granddaughters potazzine, after the small, brightly coloured birds of the Tuscan countryside. That is what their grandmother called Viola and Sofia, the daughters of owner Gigliola Giannetti — and the estate grew in step with them: Viola was born in 1993, the founding year, and when Sofia arrived in 1996 two more hectares took the total to five.
The Brunello is made traditionally here: a spontaneous fermentation of some forty days on the estate's own wild yeasts, without temperature control, followed by more than three years in casks of 30 and 50 hectolitres of Slavonian oak from Garbellotto. Unfiltered. Le Prata and La Torre mature separately and are united only at bottling.
Five hectares, 35,000 bottles, and a handful of those in this format. We have two.
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